Camellia Grace Learn Article #20

Tiffany & Co.

A Glimpse of the Tiffany Exhibit at the World's Columbian Exposition. Page 6 and 7 of A Glimpse of the Tiffany Exhibit at the World's Columbian Exposition, 1893. From the August Number of Godey's Magazine. George Frederic Heydt. Chicago History Museum.

Tiffany & Co. began in 1837 in New York City as a stationery and fancy goods store, cofounded by Charles Lewis Tiffany and John B. Young, and began adding jewelry in the 1850s. Charles Tiffany built it into what became the nation's preeminent jeweler for more than fifty years and a distinctly American symbol of elegance and style. In 1870, the firm moved uptown to Union Square, into a store that The New York Times described as a "palace of jewels," and stayed there until 1906.

 

Silver mattered to the business as much as gems. Edward C. Moore served as Tiffany's chief silver designer from 1868 until his death nearly a quarter century later, and the Met credits him as the creative force behind the firm's success in the second half of the century. At the 1878 Paris Exposition, Tiffany won the gold medal for jewelry and a grand prize for silverware, an early sign that American craftsmanship could compete with Europeโ€™s.

 

Charles Tiffany was also a shrewd marketer. In 1845, the firm introduced the Blue Book, considered the first direct-mail catalog to bring fine jewelry to American doorsteps. Why its signature blue was chosen is unclear. It may have reflected the period's fashion for turquoise, but no one knows for certain. The blue box came with its own rule: the store never let one leave the building except with an article it had sold. In 1886, the firm introduced the Tiffany Setting, which raised the diamond above the band to increase its brilliance. Earlier bezel settings had enclosed the stone and limited the light reaching it. The six-prong design became the basis of the engagement ring as it is known today.

Afternoon Tea and Anglophilia

An afternoon tea, c1901. Library of Congress.

British afternoon tea is usually credited to Anna Maria Russell, the seventh Duchess of Bedford and one of Queen Victoria's ladies-in-waiting, around 1840. As dinner was served later and later, she described a 'sinking feeling' at about 5 pm and had tea, bread and butter, and cake brought to her room. Historians debate whether she invented the meal or simply codified an existing custom.

 

American society adopted the tradition and argued over the name. Etiquette columnist Mary Elizabeth Wilson Sherwood described how the kettledrum became the most fashionable of entertainments, until the word was dropped from invitations in favor of simply the date and hour. Her ideal New York tea was a hostess โ€œAt Homeโ€ at five o'clock daily, receiving gentlemen on their way from downtown. The habit spread unevenly. A 1905 writer noted that because Americans dined at six, five o'clock tea had caught on mainly with the leisure classes, college girls, bachelor maids, artists, and Bohemians.

 

Tea was one part of a broader Anglophilia among the Gilded Age elite. Sherwood observed that Americans were fond of copying the stately etiquette of England. Wealthy men imported English sports as eagerly as their wives imported English manners. Delancey Kane and Colonel William Jay, both taken with coaching in England, founded the New York Coaching Club in 1875, with Leonard Jerome and James Gordon Bennett among its early members.

 

Jerome's daughter Jennie became one of the first Dollar Princesses (see Letter #8). The next year, Bennett returned from England with polo equipment and the Hurlingham Club rules, sent to Texas for ponies, and formed the Westchester Polo Club. The admiration was not always returned. Sherwood reported that Queen Victoria refused to receive some of the Prince of Wales's American favorite acquaintances.

Other Words, People and Phrases:

Tussie-mussie: A small posy of flowers and scented herbs, carried to ward off street smells. In Victorian courtship, a gentleman often gave one to a lady, and each flower in it carried a meaning.

Mr. Charles Lewis Tiffany: The founder of Tiffany & Co. and father of Louis Comfort Tiffany. He died in Manhattan in 1902 at the age of ninety.

Arleigh: A Newport cottage on Bellevue Avenue, no longer standing, rented by Harry and Elizabeth Lehr. It was the setting for their famous party for the dogs of Newportโ€™s elite.

Bushwhacker: An American word dating to 1809 for a backwoodsman. During the Civil War, it came to mean a Confederate guerrilla.

Fletcher's Castoria: A popular senna-based laxative for children, patented in 1868 and renamed by Charles Fletcher after he bought the formula. It was famous for the slogan, "Children cry for Chas. Fletcher's Castoria."

Chin-wag: Informal slang, chiefly British, for a friendly chat or gossip, first recorded in 1869.

Mr. Harry Lehr: A Gilded Age socialite and favorite of Mrs. Astor and Mamie Fish, known as "King Lehr" for his outrageous parties. In 1901, he married the wealthy widow Elizabeth Drexel for her money.

Sources:

https://www.britannica.com/biography/Charles-Lewis-Tiffany
https://apollo-magazine.com/collecting-inspiration-edward-c-moore-tiffany-co-the-met/
https://www.encyclopedia.com/education/economics-magazines/tiffany-charles-lewis
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tiffany_%26_Co.
https://www.metmuseum.org/en/exhibitions/collecting-inspiration-edward-c-moore-at-tiffany-and-co
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Charles_Lewis_Tiffany
https://robbreport.com.my/style/design-classic-the-tiffany-blue-box/
https://press.tiffany.com/our-story/tiffany-blue/
https://press.tiffany.com/the-collections/diamonds/?pdf=3273
https://www.britishmuseum.org/blog/tea-rific-history-victorian-afternoon-tea
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tea_(meal) https://ladyamcal.wordpress.com/2010/03/23/19th-century-etiquette-antebellum-afternoon-tea-part-12/
https://kwize.com/en/themes/afternoon-tea/
https://foodtimeline.org/teatime.html
https://www.gutenberg.org/cache/epub/8399/pg8399.html
https://www.attelage-patrimoine.com/2023/04/coaching-through-the-gilded-age.html
https://polomuseum.org/james-gordon-bennett/
https://nationalmuseumpublications.co.za/the-victorian-tussie-mussie-from-warding-off-the-plague-to-declaring-your-undying-love/
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Charles_Lewis_Tiffany
https://newporthistory.org/?p=28948
https://www.etymonline.com/word/bushwhacker
https://www.mayoclinicproceedings.org/article/s0025-6196(17)30541-4/fulltext
https://www.merriam-webster.com/dictionary/chin wag
https://americanaristocracy.com/people/henry-symes-lehr

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