Camellia Grace Learn Article #18

Dressing Rituals

For the women of the Gilded Ageโ€™s upper classes, their wardrobe and fashion acted as currency. The right fabrics, styles, and dressmakers could purchase them significant social capital in a world where what you possessed and owned mattered. There were strict dress codes that governed every womanโ€™s daily life; from the length of her sleeves to the height of the heel of her shoes. Different times of day and different styles of events required different styles of clothes, women were required to dress multiple times a day, making fashion a very large part of their life. These types of dress were usually divided into morning, afternoon, and evening dress. 

Morning Dress

Morning Dress, 1880. Charles Frederick Worth. The MET

The morning dress was typically worn, as its name suggests, in the morning at home or out to make morning calls. The style was usually conservative with long sleeves and a high neckline made of lightweight fabrics such as cotton and linen. It was to be a dress more for purpose than fashion that could be worn while writing letters or invitations, doing needlework or eating breakfast. 

 Afternoon Dress

Afternoon Ensemble, 1898-1890. Raudnitz and Co. โ€“ Huet & Chรฉruit. The MET 

As the day progressed, womenโ€™s dresses became more elaborate with brighter colors and richer fabrics, but still with restraint. Around 1- 2 p.m. in the afternoon, women engaged in activities such as receiving visitors, or visiting others, and attending teas or lunches. A lady would wear afternoon gowns made of fabrics like taffeta and light silk, though still with modest, high necklines and long sleeves. But more embellishments in these dresses were permitted, and adorned with accessories such as hats, gloves, jackets, and stoles. 

Evening Dresses

Dinner Dress, 1890-1895. House of Worth. The MET

The most elaborate of dresses came out in the evenings. Everyone always dressed for dinner, even if it was just a family dinner. The concept was a practice of maintaining oneโ€™s reputation as it was seen as a more refined and dignified practice. Once again, the dinner dress brought even more elegance in the fabric and ornamentation, often using fabrics such as satin and velvet. Necklines could be lowered slightly, but sleeves still needed to remain on the longer side below the elbow. Ladies would wear gloves that they would take off at the dinner table and keep on their laps until the meal was over. 

Ball Gown, 1898-1900. House of Worth. The MET

Evening Dress, 1890. Christoph Drecoll. The MET

The epitome of fashion for the Gilded Age lady was that of the formal ball gown. These were large, social events where ladies could show off their most desirable and beautiful frocks. The styles were vast and extravagant with lower necklines, shorter sleeves, intricate embroidery, a full range of colors, and long trains. These dresses, made of the finest of fabrics, were always accessorized with elaborate hairdos and expensive jewelry. This was a time to shine where your social class and standing were put on display through your attire.

 

Other occasions also required different styles of dress for Ladies of the Gilded Age. These included walking dresses, riding habits, traveling dresses, and even the occasional costume dress for a costume ball. These numerous daily wardrobe changes were a burden for women as the time to change the many layers of underclothes could be arduous and require the help of household staff to achieve, plus the fixing and doing of oneโ€™s hair. However, in engaging in this ritual, a Lady was signifying her privilege to afford to own the wardrobe and the social capital to have a need to dress multiple times a day. The Gilded Age lady really did serve as a visual portrait of status. 

Marital Negotiations 

The Marriage Proposal, 1882. Evert-Jan Boks. Oil on board. Public Domain 

Among wealthy Americans during the Gilded Age, becoming engaged was often a significant social and family event. Courtship followed established rules of etiquette, and a young man who wished to marry was generally expected to show he had a respectable family, was financially situated, and had solid social standing. The approval of the womanโ€™s parents was important among wealthy families because marriage could affect the familyโ€™s fortune, reputations, and position in society.

 

Love was certainly considered desirable, but marriages among the wealthy could also serve important practical purposes. Families might seek a spouse with a compatible social background, wealth, education, family connections, or desirable business and political relationships. For families with newly acquired fortunes, marriage could also provide greater acceptance among established society. The Vanderbilts, for example, became enormously wealthy during the nineteenth century but initially faced resistance from older New York families who considered them โ€œnew money.โ€ Marriage could help strengthen a familyโ€™s position within elite circles.

 

For young women, marriage was closely connected to financial security and social status. Wealthy heiresses could bring substantial inheritances or dowries to a marriage, making them attractive to men who wanted access to American fortunes. This became especially important in marriages between American heiresses and European aristocrats. Jennie Jerome's 1874 engagement to Lord Randolph Churchill and Consuelo Vanderbilt's 1895 marriage to the Duke of Marlborough are famous examples. In these marriages, American wealth could be exchanged for aristocratic titles and social prestige.


Once an engagement was accepted, it would normally be announced to family, friends, and the wider social community. For prominent families, engagement announcements could appear in newspapers. The couple would then begin preparing for the wedding, while their families might address financial matters. Etiquette was taken seriously among elite society, with contemporary guides prescribing appropriate behavior, correspondence, dress, and social conduct.


Lawyers became particularly important when substantial property was involved. Wealthy families could negotiate a marriage settlement, sometimes called an antenuptial agreement, before the wedding. These agreements could establish how the bride's inheritance, dowry, trusts, income, and other property would be handled. They could also provide financial arrangements for the husband, wife, and future children. The purpose was often to protect family wealth and establish precisely what each spouse would receive.


During this time, the engagement itself could also be considered a legal contract, without a signed document. The legal significance was in the agreement from the lady and could be determined based on the coupleโ€™s behavior with one another, statements from friends and acquaintances, and correspondence. If the man or woman subsequently refused to marry, the other person could potentially bring a โ€œbreach of promise to marryโ€ lawsuit against the other. These cases were especially common in the nineteenth century and continued into the early twentieth century. 


Thus, among the Gilded Age elite, an engagement would not be entered into lightly. It could mark the beginning of a complicated process involving romance, family approval, social expectations, financial negotiations, and legal arrangements. The proposal might begin with the couple, but the marriage could ultimately involve both families, their advisers, and their attorneys.

Other Words, People and Phrases:

Siegle-Cooper: a department store that started in Chicago and opened its second store in New York City in 1896, being the largest store in the world at the time. 

Whist: a four-person card game played with a standard 52-card deck. It became a very popular game during the 18th and 19th centuries. 

Fru-Fru: a slang term used to describe something as excessively fancy or showy. 

Topiary Gardens: a garden dedicated to training trees, shrubs, and bushes by pruning and clipping them to develop and maintain clearly defined shapes. Topiary gardens became popular in America from 1880-1920. 

Hullabaloo: an uproar, loud, confused noise, or fuss usually caused by people who are upset or protesting

Tarnation: an old-fashioned exclamation used to express surprise or anger without swearing 

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